How to Sew a Cover Stitch on Your Serger
Ever snag the hem on your favorite tee and think, “Well… that’s the end of that shirt”? A cover stitch is the not-so-secret way ready-to-wear hems look clean, stretchy, and polished—and in our video, Cheri shows how to do it on a serger (Baby Lock Triumph).
What a cover stitch looks like (and why it’s so useful)
A cover stitch typically creates two (or three) parallel lines of stitching on the top and a looper thread on the underside that gives the seam stretch and flexibility—perfect for knits and hems that need to move with you.
It’s commonly used for:
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hemming T-shirts, leggings, and knit garments
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repairing popped hems
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topstitching seams so they lay flat
The basic setup (before you stitch)
Cover stitching is one of those skills that feels instantly easier when you prep well.
1) Switch your machine into cover/chain mode
On combo machines (like the Triumph), you’ll convert from overlock to cover/chain configuration so the correct looper/stitch formation is engaged.
2) Choose your needle setup
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2-needle cover stitch is the most common for hems
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3-needle cover stitch gives a wider, more “store-bought” look
(Your machine manual will show which needles/positions to use.)
3) Thread for cover stitch
Cover stitch threading is different than overlock—so follow your machine’s cover-stitch threading path carefully (Cheri walks through this in the tutorial).
Prepping your hem so it behaves
Cover stitch loves a hem that’s already decided what it wants to be.
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Press your hem up to the wrong side and keep it consistent.
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If your fabric is prone to “tunneling” (a raised ridge between the needle lines), test with a light stabilizer strip or adjust settings (below).
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Always test on a scrap of the same knit before sewing the real thing.
Sewing the cover stitch (the part that feels like magic)
Cover stitching is usually done from the right side of the garment, catching the folded hem underneath as you sew.
Tips that make a big difference:
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Guide steadily—don’t pull the knit (that’s how hems get wavy).
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Watch your alignment so the needles catch the hem evenly underneath.
Quick setting tweaks if your stitches aren’t perfect yet
Cover stitch is very “fabric sensitive,” so small adjustments are normal.
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Wavy hem: try adjusting differential feed and slow down.
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Tunneling: adjust tension/differential feed, consider presser foot pressure changes, or add a stabilizer strip.
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Skipped stitches: needle type/size and correct threading matter a lot—rethreading cleanly often fixes it.
Watch the video tutorial
This technique clicks fastest when you can see the threading path, needle placement, and fabric handling in real time. Watch Cheri’s cover stitch tutorial here:
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Ready to bring home a serger (or upgrade)?
At My Girlfriend’s Quilt Shoppe, we know a serger is the secret to professional-looking seams, flawless finishes, and stretch-friendly stitches. That’s why we carry trusted brands like Brother and Baby Lock, offering everything from beginner-friendly models to advanced sergers with cover stitch options. Whether you’re sewing garments, home décor, or quilting accents, we’ll help you choose the serger that takes your stitching to the next level.
You can shop sergers right on our website—beginner-friendly options all the way up to feature-packed dream machines.