How to Sew a Chain Stitch on Your Serger

If you’ve mostly used your serger for finishing edges, a chain stitch is one of those “wait… my machine can do that?!” moments. In our Serging With the Girlfriends tutorial, Cheri shows how to set up and sew a chain stitch on the Baby Lock Triumph—and even how to use specialty thread (hello, a little sparkle) for extra personality.

What is a chain stitch?

A chain stitch is formed with one needle and one looper, creating a seam that can be strong and flexible—and it’s also known for being easy to remove when used for basting.

On serger/cover-and-chain machines like the Triumph, chain/cover stitches are made using the chain/cover stitch needle positions and one looper.

Why you might actually love using a chain stitch

A chain stitch can be a great choice when you want:

• A strong seam with a bit of give (especially helpful on some garments)

• Fast basting that removes easily

• A clean seam that pairs well with other finishes (like topstitching or a separate edge finish)

• A chance to play with decorative threads in the looper for a more elevated look

Basic setup: switching your serger into chain stitch mode

Exact steps vary by model, but the overall flow is consistent.

1. Move into chain/cover stitch mode
   If your machine has separate overlock vs. cover/chain settings, switch into the chain/cover configuration so the correct needle positions and looper are engaged.

2. Use the correct needle configuration
   A chain stitch uses one needle (your manual will tell you which needle position to use for the chain stitch setting).

3. Thread the chain looper and the needle
   Chain stitch = needle thread + chain looper thread. In Cheri’s tutorial, she uses standard needle thread and a specialty thread in the looper.

4. Set stitch length and tension, then test
   Start with your machine’s recommended chain stitch settings and always test on scrap. If you’re using heavier thread in the chain looper, you may need small tension tweaks for good coverage.

Using specialty thread (without the frustration)

This is where chain stitch gets fun. Cheri demonstrates using Razzle Dazzle in the looper, which can add visual impact to seams and decorative stitching.

A good rule of thumb:

• Put your specialty/heavier thread in the chain looper

• Keep a dependable thread in the needle

• Test and adjust tension until the stitch looks balanced and smooth

Starting and ending your chain stitch cleanly

Because a chain stitch can unravel if left unsecured, plan a finish that fits your project:

• Chain off a tail, then tie off or tuck the tail into the seam allowance

• If you’ll be crossing with another seam, you can sometimes secure it in the seam intersection

• For decorative stitching, consider a small back-tack method recommended for your machine (or hand-knotting the tail)

Watch the video tutorial

This is one of those skills that clicks fastest when you see the threading path, settings, and stitch formation. Cheri walks through the setup on the Baby Lock Triumph and shows the stitch in action (including the specialty thread option).

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Ready to bring home a serger (or upgrade)?

At My Girlfriend’s Quilt Shoppe, we know a serger is the secret to professional-looking seams, flawless finishes, and stretch-friendly stitches. That’s why we carry trusted brands like Brother and Baby Lock, offering everything from beginner-friendly models to advanced sergers with cover stitch options. Whether you’re sewing garments, home décor, or quilting accents, we’ll help you choose the serger that takes your stitching to the next level.

You can shop sergers right on our website—beginner-friendly options all the way up to feature-packed dream machines.