Ruffles have a way of making a project look instantly more finished—like you meant to be fancy all along. In this tutorial, Cheri shows how to make ruffles on your serger using a 4-thread overlock stitch, with simple setting tweaks that help the fabric gather quickly and evenly.
Why use a serger for ruffles?
Because you get two wins at once: the serger gathers the fabric and finishes the edge in the same pass. That means fewer steps, less fraying, and a ruffle strip that’s ready to attach right away.
What makes the fabric gather?
On most sergers, ruffling is created by a combination of:
-
Differential feed set higher than neutral (this pushes fabric into gathers)
-
A longer stitch length (gives the gathers room to form)
-
Steady guiding so the knife trims consistently and your edge stays neat
Different fabrics gather differently, so think of this as a “dial it in” technique—quick tests are your best friend.
Step-by-step: Ruffles with a 4-thread overlock
1) Start with a test strip
Cut a scrap strip from the same fabric you’ll use in your project. Your settings that work beautifully on quilting cotton may behave totally differently on gauze or knits.
2) Set your machine for gathering
Use a standard 4-thread overlock and adjust:
-
Differential feed: increase above neutral
-
Stitch length: lengthen
Then stitch a short test sample and check the fullness.
3) Serge the ruffle strip
Serge along the edge you want gathered. Keep a light touch and let the serger feed the fabric—pulling or stretching while you stitch can reduce the gathers or make things uneven.
4) Bonus gathering boost: pull the two needle threads
After you serge your strip, leave a longer thread tail. Then pull the two needle threads (not the looper threads) to gather the ruffle even more and help you control the final fullness. As you pull, gently “scrunch” the fabric along the seam so the gathers distribute evenly.
Quick tip: If it’s hard to tell which threads are the needle threads, use a contrasting needle thread color on your test strip—makes it obvious what to pull.
5) Secure the gathers
Once your ruffle is the length you want, secure the thread tails (a small knot works well), and you’re ready to attach the ruffle to your project.
Troubleshooting (quick fixes)
My ruffle isn’t gathering much.
Increase differential feed and/or stitch length. Also check that you’re not accidentally stretching the fabric flat as you sew.
My ruffle looks uneven.
Slow down, keep your fabric aligned at the guide, and use quarter marks to distribute fullness evenly.
My edge looks wavy instead of ruffled.
That’s usually fabric stretch + handling. Guide gently and test a different differential setting.
Watch the video tutorial
If you want to see the settings and fabric handling in real time (which makes everything click faster), watch the full tutorial here.
Come hang out in our Serger-Obsessed Corner of the Internet
If you want serger tips, troubleshooting help, settings chats, project inspo, and that “oh good, it’s not just me” feeling—join our private Facebook group all about sergers!
Ready to bring home a serger (or upgrade)?
At My Girlfriend’s Quilt Shoppe, we know a serger is the secret to professional-looking seams, flawless finishes, and stretch-friendly stitches. That’s why we carry trusted brands like Brother and Baby Lock, offering everything from beginner-friendly models to advanced sergers with cover stitch options. Whether you’re sewing garments, home décor, or quilting accents, we’ll help you choose the serger that takes your stitching to the next level.
You can shop sergers right on our website—beginner-friendly options all the way up to feature-packed dream machines.